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Dreadlocks, sometimes called simply dreads or locks, are matted ropes of hair which will form by themselves if the hair is allowed to grow naturally without the use of brushes, combs, razors or scissors for a long period of time. Dreadlocks are a universal phenomenon and through the ages, people of various cultures have worn dreadlocks. It can be said that what are known today as "dreadlocks" are one of the oldest and most universal hairstyles known.
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The first known examples of dreadlocks date back to ancient dynastic Egypt, where Egyptian royalty and commoners wearing dreadlocked hairstyles and wigs appear on bas-reliefs, statuary and other artifacts. Mummified remains of ancient Egyptians with dreadlocks, as well as dreadlocked wigs, also have been recovered from archaeological sites. [1]
Vedic scriptures provide the earliest known written evidence of dreadlocks. Their exact date of origin is still in dispute, ranging from to 5000 BCE to 1500 BCE. The dreadlocked Vedic deity Shiva and his followers were described in the Vedic scriptures as "jaTaa", meaning "wearing twisted locks of hair", probably derived from the Dravidian word "caTai", which means to twist or to wrap. The Vedas are the primary texts of Hinduism and had a vast influence on Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism and also influenced the Celtic religion, society and folklore [2] [3] [4]. According to Roman accounts of the time, the Celts wore dreadlocks as well, describing them as having "hair like snakes".
Germanic tribes, the Vikings, the Greeks, the Pacific Ocean peoples, and the Naga people also wore dreadlocks.
Several ascetic groups within various major religions have at times worn their hair in dreadlocks. In addition to the Nazirites of Judaism and the Sadhus of Hinduism, there are the Dervishes of Islam and the Coptic Monks of Christianity, among others. The very earliest Christians also may have worn this hairstyle. Particularly noteworthy are descriptions of James the Just, "brother of Jesus" and first Bishop of Jerusalem, who wore them to his ankles.
Dreadlocks also have been part of Mexican culture. In a description of an Aztec ritual, Historian William Hickling Prescott referred to dreadlocked Priests of the Aztec civilization, a Mesoamerican people of central Mexico in the 14th century, 15th century and 16th century.
"On the summit he was received by six priests, whose long and matted locks flowed disorderly over their sable robes, covered with hieroglyphic scrolls of mystic import. They led him to the sacrificial stone, a huge block of jasper, with its upper surface somewhat convex." (William H. Prescott, History of the Conquest of Mexico)
In Senegal, the Baye Fall, followers of the Mouride movement, a sect of Islam indigenous to the country which was founded in 1887 by Shaykh Amadu Bàmba Mbàkke, are famous for growing dreadlocks and wearing multi-coloured gowns. Cheikh Ibra Fall, founder of the Baye Fall school of the Mouride Brotherhood, claims that he was "the first dread in West Africa".
In Jamaica the term dreadlocks was first recorded in the 1950s when the "Young Black Faith", an early sect of the Rastafari which began among the marginalized poor of Jamaica in the 1930s, ceased to copy the particular hair style of Haile Selassie I of Ethiopia and began to wear dreadlocks instead. Different theories exist about the origin of Rastalocks. Some sources trace Rasta locks back to Indians who arrived in Jamaica to work as indentured laborers in the late 19th century, some of whom were among the first followers of Leonard Howell. Others believe the first Rasta dreadlocks were derived from the "dreaded locks" of the Mau Mau, the violent, largely Kikuyu protonationalist insurgency against British colonialism in 1940s Kenya. Most Rastafari, however, explain Rastalocks with one of the three Nazarite vows, in the Book of Numbers, the fourth of the books of the Pentateuch.
Nazarites for life who wore dreadlocks and were mentioned in the Bible include the Nazarites Samuel, John the Baptist, and probably the most famous biblical figure with locked hair, Samson, who, according to scripture, had seven locks and lost his great strength when they were cut.
There are many reasons among various cultures for wearing dreadlocks. Dreads can be an expression of deep religious or spiritual convictions, a manifestation of ethnic pride, make a political statement, or be simply a fashion preference.
Among the Sadhus and Sadhvis, Indian holy men and women, dreadlocks are sacred, their formation a religious ritual and an expression of their disregard for profane vanity, and a manifestation of a spiritual understanding that physical appearances are unimportant. This Sannyasin, the particular phase of life in which the person develops Vairagya, a state of determination and disillusionment with material life, does not merely follow a public pattern (that includes letting his or her hair grow in matted locks), but goes through an inner transformation. The public symbol of matted hair is thus re-created each time an individual goes through these unique experiences. In almost all myths about Shiva and his flowing locks, there is a continual interplay of extreme asceticism and virile potency, which link up the elements of destruction and creation, whereas the full head of matted hair symbolizes the control of power.
Dreadlocks also represent Shiva's power. Gangadhara Shiva captures and controls the river Ganges with his locks, whose descent from the heavens would have deluged the world. She is released through the locks of his hair, which prevents the river from destroying earth. As the Lord of Dance, Nataraja, Shiva performs the tandava, which is the dance in which the universe is destroyed. Shiva's long, matted tresses, usually piled up in a kind of pyramid, loosen during the dance and crash into the heavenly bodies, knocking them off course or destroying them utterly.
Dreadlocks in India are reserved nearly exclusively for holy people as well as shamans in many of the ethnic groups that still maintain such practices. According to the 'Hymn of the longhaired sage' in the ancient Vedas, long jatas express a spiritual significance which implies the wearer has special relations with spirits, is an immortal traveller between two worlds and the master over fire:
The Shaiva Nagas, ascetics of India, wear their jata (long hair) in a twisted knot or bundle on top of the head and let them down only for special occasions and rituals. The strands are then rubbed with ashes and cowdung, considered both sacred and purifying, then scented and adorned with flowers.
In East Asian countries, such as China, dreadlocks and a variation on locks, the Polish plait, initially treated as an amulet supposed to bring good health, was often worn in combination with extremely long fingernails. These fashions were reserved mainly for noblemen and ascetics, who wished to advertise their freedom from menial labor and earthly attachment.
The Baye Fall wear dreadlocks which are called ndiange or 'strong hair' in imitation of Ibrahima Fall, chief disciple of the spritual guide Shaykh Amadu Bàmba Mbàkke with the goal to cultivate a unique relationship with God through the Shaykh.
Similarly, the Rastafari wear dreads as an expression of inner spirituality. For them, the term "dread" refers to a "fear of the Lord", expressed in part as alienation from the perceived decadence and other evils of contemporary society and a return to the Covenant with the Almighty, Jah Ras Tafari.
Another interpretation among the Rastafari is that "dread" refers to the fear dreadlocked Mau Mau warriors inspired among the colonial British.
Although Emperor Haile Sellassie I did not wear the locks, dreadlocks on a Rasta's head are symbolic of the Lion of Judah which is sometimes centered on the Ethiopian Flag. Rastas hold that Selassie is a direct descendant of the Israelite Tribe of Judah through the lineage of Kings of Israel David and Solomon, and that he is also the Lion of Judah mentioned in the Book of Revelation.
After the baptism of Bob Marley by Ethiopian archbishop, Abuna Yeshaq, some people, such as rock music author Timothy White in Catch a Fire: The Life of Bob Marley, believe that the religious or spiritual meaning of dreadlocks can be traced back to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. However, representatives of the Egyptian Coptic and Ethiopian Orthodox Church categorically deny a connection to the Rastafarian movement [5], stating that archbishop Abuna Yeshaq has been excommunicated:
The Ngati Dreads or Maori Rastafarians, indigenous people of New Zealand, combine the Rasta teaching with the teachings of Te Kooti Arikirangi Te Turuki, a Maori leader and the founder of the Ringatu religion who preached belief in God and the rejection of Māori tohungaism.
The rise in popularity of reggae music in the 1980s and the worldwide fame of singer and songwriter Bob Marley prompted an interest dreads internationally. The anti-establishment philosophy of Rastafari, echoed in much of the reggae of the time, had a particular resonance for left-leaning youth of all ethnicities — especially and primarily among African-Americans and other blacks, but among counterculture whites as well. It is among these groups that dreadlocks have become most popular.
Like the afro, locks also can have social and political implications. For some peoples of African descent, locks are a statement of racial or ethnic pride. Some see them as a repudiation of Eurocentric values represented by straightened hair. For some, the rejection of ideas and values deemed alien to African peoples which dreadlocks embody sometimes can assume a spiritual dimension. Similarly, others wear dreads as a manifestation of their black nationalist or pan-Africanist political beliefs and view locks as symbols of black unity and power, and a rejection of oppression, racism and imperialism. While most Rastafari sects welcome all ethnicities and the history of dreadlocks attributes the hairstyle to almost all racial and ethnic groups, some blacks who attach strong racial meaning to dreads disapprove of the wearing of dreads by nonblacks, viewing such practice as a form of cultural appropriation.
In white counterculture, dreads have become popular among groups such as the "anti-globalisation" movement and environmental activists (such as Swampy, well-known in the 1990s). One issue of SchNEWS, an English environmental action newsletter, described the coming together of striking dockworkers and green protestors as "Docks and dreadlocks come together". [7] Some people also describe them as "neo-hippies."
Black rastafarian and British film director and musician Don Letts, explained the punk-dread unity, which emerged in Great Britain during the early 1970s, in terms of a shared sense of a rebellion against the establishment and established norms.
Apart from anti-establishment politics and spiritual reasons, some Caucasians have cited reasons for adopting dreadlocks to honor and cherish Celtic or Viking tribal identity.
Within other youth subcultures, dreads also can be a means of creative self-expression, a symbol of individualism and a form of rebellion against traditional ties and restrictions. For example the members of the Cybergoth movement in Europe setting out to shock with creative hair displays like wildly coloured dread wigs, "dread falls" and elaborate extensions complemented by dramatic make-up to oppose representations of authority and conformity.
When the reggae music of Bob Marley in the 1970s gained popularity and mainstream acceptance, the locks, often just called “dreads”, became a fashion statement, a trend for the secular, worn by prominent actors, athletes, rappers, even portrayed as part of a gang culture in some movies.
With the "Rasta style", the fashion and beauty industries capitalized on the trend. A completely new line of hair care products and services emerged, offering all sorts of "dreadhead" hair care items such as wax, shampoo and jewelry. Hairstylists created a wide variety of modified dreadlocks, including multi-colored, synthetic dreadlock extensions and "dread perms".
Hair salons in African American communities were booming as well, offering "natural" African styles by attaching locks of false or artificial hair similar to dreadlocks to the natural hair. Dreadlocks that used to take five years to develop became available at the local stylist in approximately five hours.
Dreadlocked models appeared at fashion shows and Rasta clothing with a Jamaican style reggae look were sold. Even exclusive fashion brands like Christian Dior created whole Rasta inspired collections worn by models with a variety of dreadlock hairstyles.